How fast does standing water start to damage a home?
Damage begins within hours. Water wicks up plaster and drywall, soaks into carpet pad and starts to swell the bottom of wood framing. The longer it stands, the more materials have to be removed rather than dried, which is why removal comes before any drying plan.
The materials differ in how they fail. Hard surfaces such as tile can be cleaned and dried in place. Carpet pad, particleboard and the paper facing on drywall absorb water and hold it, so they are usually removed. Wood framing stays wet inside the cavity for much longer than the room looks wet, and that is the reason the crew checks readings rather than the floor.
Standing water also moves sideways. It travels under a sill plate, behind baseboard and into the gap under a door, and it can reach a room two walls away within the first hour. A crew that only mops the visible floor leaves the rest of the wet material in place. Extraction is done to the edges of the wet zone, not just to the puddle.
Should I pump the water out myself or wait for a crew?
Stop water from arriving and keep people away from it, but do not try to remove large volumes with household tools. A wet vacuum from a hardware store is not a substitute for extraction equipment, and a homeowner who runs a pump in standing water can be hurt by the cord, the outlet or the electrical circuit.
Some steps help and are safe: closing the main, lifting rugs and small items, moving furniture off the wet floor, and photographing the water line before anything is touched. Those photographs are useful to you and to the insurer, and they cost nothing.
Running a sump pump that is still working, or a cellar pump that is not connected to a live circuit, is a judgement the homeowner can make with care. Anything plugged into a wet outlet, or any cord lying in water, is left alone until the power is off at the panel. The crew will tell you whether the equipment it brings is safe to run where the water is.
What happens to the carpet and pad during extraction?
The carpet is lifted from its tack strip where water has soaked through the pad, and the pad is removed and discarded if it is wet through. Carpet can often be cleaned and dried if the backing and the pad are sound and the water was clean and removed quickly.
Lifting the carpet is done early because wet carpet traps moisture against the subfloor and holds it there. A subfloor that stays damp under a carpet can swell, cup or grow mold within days, and the carpet only hides that until it is too late. The crew lifts, records and stacks the carpet so it can be dried or assessed later.
Hardwood and laminate are handled differently. Water between boards is removed, the boards are opened where needed to let the cavity vent, and the floor is dried in place. Where the boards have already cupped, the decision to keep or replace them is made after the drying readings are taken, not during the extraction.
How does the crew decide what has to come out?
The crew decides by the category of the water, the time it has been in contact with a material, and the material itself. Porous materials that have been wet for more than a short time are removed, while non-porous ones are cleaned and dried in place.
Moisture meters and a thermal camera show where the water has reached inside walls and under floors. Those readings are compared with a dry reference from an undamaged part of the house. Anything that reads well above the reference is either removed or marked for a follow-up check.
The crew does not promise that a particular item will be saved. It says what it expects to keep, what it expects to remove, and what it will check again on the next visit. Those decisions are made on evidence from the readings, and they are explained to you before the material leaves the house.